Bronzeville - The Black Metropolis

Fig. 1 - Map of Bronzeville

The neighborhood of Bronzeville is located just south of Chicago's downtown area. Its name was coined in the 1930's by James J. Gentry, a theater editor for Anthony Overton, to reflect the African heritage of the community^[14]. What makes Bronzeville unique is the richness of its history; from 1850 to 1870, the African-American population had increased from 320 to 3,700 in Chicago^[2]. Most of the population at the time was concentrated near the South Side. By 1900, the population near the South Side had grown to 30,000 and was being nicknamed "a city within a city"^[2]. The African-American population in Chicago continued to increase, which in 1910 to 1920 saw a 148% increase^[3]. The massive increase in population was due to the Great Migration. The restoration of white supremacy and Jim Crow Laws in the south were the reasons African-Americans wanted to escape to the north. And the reason why African-Americans were coming to Chicago was thanks to Robert S. Abbott. Abbott established the Chicago Defender newspaper in 1905^[4]. His newspaper influenced African-Americans to come to Chicago by printing stories about the injustice and poverty of the south and the social and financial opportunities of the north. But while African-Americans escaped the segregation of the south, they still faced it in the north. Bronzeville was born out of segregation towards African-Americans that kept them out of the loop. Despite the hardships they faced, Bronzeville continued to develop little by little. By 1998, the city of Chicago designated Bronzeville as the Black Metropolis-Bronzeville Historic District^[5].

Fig. 2 - The Great Migration Statue

My trip to Bronzeville was very educational. I learned to appreciate the rich history of Bronzeville through its iconic statues, buildings, and churches. The first stop on my list was the Great Migration Statue located on 26th Place and King Drive. The statue was created by Alison Saar in 1994 to commemorate the more than half a million African-Americans that came to Chicago in the 20th century^[5]. The bronze statue is carrying a suitcase and wearing a suit made out of worn shoe soles that symbolize the long difficult journey African-Americans had coming to Chicago.

Fig. 4 - Boulevard System of Bronzeville

Fig.3 - Bronze Bronzeville Street Map

Afterwards, I made my way down King Drive towards the Victory Monument located on 35th Street. Before viewing it, I noticed another attraction across the street from the monument. Unfortunately due to the snow, the big bronze map of Bronzeville was half way covered up by snow and what was visible was difficult to see due to the snow and salt. From what was visible, I can see that the map shows some of the geographical, cultural, and historical features of Bronzeville. In front of the bronze map was another map that contained information of the Boulevard System along with a list of several monuments in the area.

Fig. 5 - Drexel Fountain

One of the boulevards the map mentions is Drexel Boulevard; it was named after a Philadelphia banker who purchased 80 acres of real estate through a foreclosure in the 1840's^[5]. In that time, the area purchased was all prairie, but when the plans were proposed for the boulevard system by Chicago developer John S. Wright in 1849 (Fig. 4), wealthy Chicagoans flooded to the area. In his memory, Drexel's sons erected a fountain at the south end of the boulevard, which today it's the oldest public fountain in the city.

Another boulevard worth mentioning is the Michigan Boulevard. In 1929, Sears Roebuck's chairman Julius Rosenwald ordered the construction of the Michigan Boulevard Garden Apartments, better known as the Rosenwalds, which provided African-Americans with quality, affordable housing^[5].

Fig. 6 - The Rosenwald

The complex was designed by his nephew, architect Ernest Grunsfeld, who is known for his design of the Adler Planetarium. Unlike the other public housing developments that followed, the Rosenwald was known as a safe, attractive, and desirable place to raise a family. Some of its famous residents were Pulitzer prize winner Gwendolyn Brooks, famous jazz singer Nat King Cole, music legend Quincy Jones, and famous boxer Joe Louis. The Rosenwald has been vacant since 2000. Currently, the Rosenwald Court Developers LLC have reserved the apartments; 120 units will be for the Chicago Housing Authority seniors, 105 will be rented for discounted rates, 6 will be offered at market rates, and 8 will be reserved for on-site employees^[13].

Fig. 8 - Victory Monument
(Back)

Fig. 7 - Victory Monument
(Front)

Fig. 9 - Victory Monument
(Left)

Fig. 10 - Victory Monument
(Right)

Victory Monument was erected in 1927 to honor the more than 2000 men sent from the Eight Regiment to fight in France during WWI^[5]. The monument has a warrior-type statue in the front holding a shield in one hand and a sword in the other and an eagle stands in front of him. On the sides there are two draped female figures, one holds what looks like a branch and the other holds a tablet with names on it. On the back of the monument is a list of the men that died in France and is organized based on military rank. And on top of the monument is a statue of a soldier carrying a rifle.

Fig. 11 - Eight Regiment Armory (1915)

The Eight Regiment Armory was built on June 25, 1915 on 3353 S Giles. It was the first armory in the nation built to serve an African-American military regiment. What was unique about that regiment was that the officers also served as the rank and file. Today, the armory is the home of the military academy public high school.








Continuing on Martin Luther King Jr. Drive, I walked up and down to see as many of plaques on the Bronzeville Walk of Fame, which total at 91 plaques. Due to the snow and ice, I was unable to see all of them, but here are some of the ones I was able to see:

Fig. 13 - Claude Albert Barnett founded the Associated
Negro Press in 1919. Etta Moten Barnett, who is still
alive, is recognized as a singer, actress, and comedienne.

Fig. 12 - Bishop Louis Henry Ford was the fourth
leader of the Church of God in Christ and
the second Presiding Bishop of the church.

Fig . 14 - Langston Hughes is recognized for
his work as an author, poet, and playwright.

Fig. 15 - Vivian Harsh is recognized for being
the 1st black librarian for the Chicago Public
Library and as the founder of the
Special Negro Collection.
Richard Wright is recognized for his work
as an author.
Lorraine Hansberry is recognized for
her work as an author and playwright.
Lastly, Fannie Barrier Williams is recongized
for her work as a lecturer, journalist, editor, and
the 1st black member of the
Library Board of Chicago.

Fig. 16 - Dinah Washington "Queen of the Blues"
is recognized as a Jazz, Blues, and Gospel Singer

Fig. 17 - Jesse Binga is the founder of the
Binga State Bank in 1921. 

Fig. 18 - Jon Jones is recognized for
being elected to the Cook County
Board of Commissioners in 1872.

Fig. 19 - McKinley Morganfield  "Muddy Waters"
is recognized for his work as a Blues Musician.

Fig. 20 - Paul Laurence Dunbar Statue

Before moving on with my trip to Bronzeville, I feel I should mention two works of art I did not get to see. The first is the Paul Laurence Dunbar Statue located in Dunbar Park. Dunbar was the son of freed slaves, originally from Ohio, came to Chicago in search of work as a journalist. He was rejected due to racial discrimination and found work as an elevator operator. He soon published his first book of poems, Oak and Ivy, and became known as the 'elevator boy poet' because he regaled passengers with his poems. He talents were finally recognized and was invited to read his poetry at the 1893 World's Colombian Exposition. Before his death at the age of 33, he managed to get his poems published in                                        major newspapers across America and  published over a dozen books^[6].

Fig 21 - Bronzeville Green Line Mural

The second, which I've actually seen various times, but never up close, is the Bronzeville Green Line Station mural. It is located on the side of the entrance to the station. The mural is dedicated to famous African-Americans such as Chante Savage, Duke Ellington, Mahalia Jackson, Etta Moten Barnette, Nat King Cole, Dinah Washington, and R Kelly.

Fig. 22 - Stephen A. Douglass Tomb 

My next stop on my trip to Bronzeville was the tomb of Stephen A. Douglass located at 636 E 35th Street. Douglass, better known for being Lincoln's debater, purchased 70 acres to build his estate in 1852^[5]. He decided to boost the value of his land by investing in the establishment of the University of Chicago. He also donated the land for the establishment of Camp Douglass to the Union Army in 1862. Camp Douglass was used to imprison 26,000 confederate soldiers, which 1 in every 7 died due to the living condition. And due to the camp, which was across the street, enrollment at the University of Chicago declined during the years it remained active.

Fig. 23 - Supreme Life Building Plaque

The first building I visited in Bronzeville was the Supreme Life Building located at 3501 S King Drive. The building was built in 1921 and was used as the headquarters for the Supreme Life Insurance Company, the first black owned and operated insurance company in the northern United States. Frank L. Gillespie founded the firm in 1919 and moved it into the building in 1921. Due the company's success, the building was remodeled in 1950 by covering its classical-style facade with porcelain-metal panels. It is recognized as one of the nine structures in the Black Metropolis-Bronzeville Historic District.

Fig. 24 - The Chicago Defender Building

The next iconic building I visited in Bronzeville was the Chicago Defender Building located at 4445 S King Drive. In 1905, Robert S. Abbott founded and published the Chicago Defender newspaper^[4]. The newspaper became the most influential black newspaper because it not only reported news, but protested inequality, promoted political and personal action, and reflected the values and ambitions of African-Americans. The Chicago Defender played an important role during the Great Migration; Abbott influenced African-Americans in the south to come to the north by printing stories about about the injustice and poverty of the south and the social and financial opportunities of the north. The newspaper set the standard for the black press by documenting pervasive race problems in the U.S. like Chicago's Race Riots of 1919 and included writing from well-known African-American writers like Pulitzer prize winner Gwendolyn Brooks or columns by Langston Hughes. Abbott also started the Bud Billiken Parade, which is the oldest and largest running African-American parade in the U.S. The parade is for the betterment of Chicago's youth, education, and as a reminder that school is abut to start. By the late 1930's Abbott was forced to turn the newspaper over to his nephew John H. Sengstacke due to failing health. Under Stengstacke, the newspaper soon became a daily paper. And due to the increase in the black population, the black press not only covered political and religious news, but began to cover social scenes, scandals, murders, trials, and local and national events.

Fig. 25 - Overton Hygienic Building

The Overton Hygienic Building is the next iconic building I visited in Bronzeville. The building is located on 3619-27 S. State Street and is named after Anthony Overton. Overton was a former slave who soon became the owner of one of the largest cosmetic firms serving African-Americans. Overton also owned a bank, an insurance agency, and a publishing company, the Chicago Bee^[5]. Currently it is the home of the Black Metropolis Convention & Tourism Council's Bronzeville Visitor Information Center^[7].

Fig. 26 - The Chicago Bee Building (1896)

Like mentioned previously, Anthony Overton also owned the Chicago Bee Building located on 3647-55 S. State Street. The building was constructed in 1929 for $200,000 to house his newspaper the Chicago Bee, which was a competing newspaper with the Chicago Defender^[8]. Due to the Great Depression, his businesses took a big hit and was forced to sell the Overton Hygienic Building and move his cosmetic business into the Chicago Bee. Overton's company stayed in business until the early 80's and the Bee building remained vacant until 1996^[8]. The building underwent extensive renovation so that it can become the Chicago Bee Branch of the Chicago Public Library.

Fig. 27 - Forum Historic Timeline (1890) 

Fig. 28 - Forum Historic Timeline (1920)

Fig. 29 - Forum Historic Timeline (1950) 

Fig. 30 - Forum Historic Timeline (1970)

Fig. 31 - Forum Historic Timeline (2015) 

Fig. 32 - The Forum Building

One building that caught my eye was the Forum building located at 318-328 E. 43rd Street. The Forum was built in 1897 and played a significant role in the community by hosting performances of musicians like Nat King Cole and provided a meeting place for civic groups^[9]. The building contains an assembly/performance hall and possibly the oldest hardwood ballroom dance floor in Chicago. The building's Forum Hall, which is used for performances, was closed in the 1970's and led to neglect of the buildings condition. The city wanted to demolition the building, but in 2011 the Urban Junction Inc. stepped in and made important structural repairs. Currently, the Urban Juncture Inc. had begun the revitalization of the building and will start with the first floor to be used for hospitality and performance/gallery venues.

Fig. 33 - Unity Hall

Another iconic building in Bronzeville's history that was a victim of neglect is Unity Hall located at 3140 S. Indiana Avenue. The building was originally constructed as the Lakeside Club, a Jewish social club, but as the areas demographic changed from Jewish to African-American, the building became Unity Hall; it played a major role in African-American politics and social history^[10]. In 1917, Oscar DePriest, Chicago's first African-American alderman, established the Peoples Movement Club and moved it into that building. The building also served as the headquarters for the Democratic leader William Dawson and as a church after WWII. In 1998, the city of Chicago designated the building as a Chicago Landmark. Currently, the building faces demolition, but as a landmark it can't be                                                                                                                                       demolished.

Fig. 34 - Chicago's Home of Chicken and Waffles:
Monique's Love 

 After visiting a few of Bronzeville's iconic buildings, I stopped to grab a bite to eat at Chicago's Home of Chicken and Waffles located at 3947 S. King Drive. The restaurant's interior decor is very nicely done and there are various African-style paintings throughout the restaurant. The restaurant was packed when I got there and there was a line for customers waiting to be seated. The customer service was very nice. Due to the long line and the fact that the restaurant only has booths and tables that seat four and more, I decided to get an order of Monique's Love to go. While the size of the waffle was pretty big, for $12 I think they should at least offer two waffles. The food was good and I really liked that the waffles have a hint of cinnamon.

Fig. 35 - Information on Ida B. Wells-Barnette
In Front of Her House.

After recieving my order, I visited one of the many famous homes in Bronzeville, the home of Ida B. Wells-Barnett located at 3624 S. King Drive. Ida B. Wells-Barnett was born a slave in Mississippi and at the age of 14, she became a teacher. She was dismissed in 1891 for protesting segregation. In her 20's, she wrote columns that focused on social issues for the Memphis Free Speech. In 1893 she came to Chicago to speak at the World's Colombian Exposition on the lack of representation for African-Americans. Two years later she moved to Chicago and married Ferdinand Lee Barnett, the founder of Chicago's first black newspaper, the Conservator. That year she also published the first statistical report on lynching, A Red Record. Wells went on to become the founder of the National Association for the Advancement of Colored People, the Negro Fellowship League, the nation's first black women's suffrage organization, and even helped open the first kindergarten in Chicago's black community.

Fig. 36 - Mariano's Grocery Store

Fig. 37 - Paul G. Stewart
Apartments

On my way to see more sights, I came upon the newest addition to Bronzeville, Mariano's grocery store on S. King Drive and 39th Street. Along the fence for Mariano's are pictures of famous African-Americans from Bronzeville. But not everyone in the community feels happy with its construction because it's a clear sign of gentrification. The store has taken 7 out of the 55 acres of the former site of the Ida B. Wells Homes. Looking around the area, the store clearly contrasts the entire area; there are two empty lots across the street from it and behind the store is a closed down Atlanta Food and Liquors and Quick Bite Chicken and Fish. While Bronzeville is undergoing a lot of revitalization projects (Fig .37), I think Mariano's will pose a tough competitor for small businesses. It should also be noted that the housing advocates are demanding that the Chicago Housing Authority to keep their commitment of replacing affordable and low-income units on the grounds of the Wells Homes^[7].

Fig. 38 - Pilgrim Baptist Church  

Fig. 39 - Pilgrim Baptist Church

The next stop on my trip to Bronzeville was the famous Pilgrim Baptist Church located at 3301 S. Indiana Avenue. The church was constructed by Adler & Sullivan, a world renown architectural firm and designed by Frank Lloyd Wright in 1890^[11]. As it was first known, the K.A.M Isaiah Temple was used as a synagogue until 1922 when the K.A.M moved to Kenwood and the Pilgrim Baptist Church moved in. The church is recognized as the birth place of Gospel music. Thomas A. Dorsey was the blues musician who created Gospel music at the church. After the death of his wife and child, Dorsey combined sacred text with secular blues elements to create Gospel music. From 1932 to the late 1970's, Dorsey served as the music director at the church and found the National Convention of Gospel Choirs and Choruses^[12]. In 2006 the church was demolished due to a fire. Don Jackson, CEO of Central City Productions and founder of the Stellar Gospel Music Awards, plans to build the National Museum of Gospel Music on the grounds of the Pilgrim Baptist Church by 2020. I think the museum will be a great asset to the museum because not only will it be a big attraction, but it will reestablish it as the birthplace of gospel music.

Fig. 40 - First Church of Deliverance

Fig. 41 - Inside the First Church of Deliverance

The last stop on my trip to Bronzeville was the First Church of Deliverance at 4315 S. Wabash Avenue. The church building was originally a hat factory until 1939 when Walter T. Bailey, the first African-American architect licensed in Illinois, redesigned it into an art modern house of worship^[5]. The church, as the name states, was the first church in America to broadcast its services live on radio for 80 years, the longest continuous program of its kind. The inside of the church is filled with a collection of notable murals, carved doors, and a hanging multi-colored illuminated cross.

Overall, my trip to Bronzeville was very informative. Learning about the rich history of the neighborhood gave me a better appreciation for its culture. While there's clearly still a lot of work that Bronzeville needs, evident by all the empty lots and neglected houses and buildings, I think it will succeed in its future endeavors and I look forwards to seeing its revitalization. 

Sources:
Fig. 1   https://www.google.com/maps/place/Bronzeville,+Chicago,+IL/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x880e2bf824a02f89:0xcefdff19c5833998?sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiC6OKoyK3ZAhWi6IMKHVc_CWgQ8gEIJjAA
Fig. 2 https://www.timeout.com/chicago/art/monument-to-the-great-northern-migration
Fig. 5 http://chicago-outdoor-sculptures.blogspot.com/2010/09/drexel-fountain-by-henry-manger-1833.html
Fig. 6 http://www.chicagomag.com/Chicago-Magazine/The-312/June-2012/The-Rosenwald-Apartments-A-Bronzeville-Legacy-in-Limbo/
Fig. 10 http://www.chicagolabortrail.org/lt-00-photo-bville.html
Fig. 20 http://statuestorieschicago.com/statue-dunbar.php
Fig. 21 https://www.flickr.com/photos/108021376@N07/27262642280
Fig. 22 https://www2.illinois.gov/dnrhistoric/Experience/Sites/Northeast/Pages/Douglas-Tomb.aspx
Fig. 25
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_zJpnTu57Koc/S6q6yjhb4_I/AAAAAAAAQKk/uGwE4GSE_wg/s1600/LI-archi-BZV-060b.jpg
Fig. 26 http://chicagopatterns.com/chicago-bee-cornerstone-of-the-black-metropolis/
Fig. 33 https://preservationchicago.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/Unity-PC.jpg
Fig. 41 https://s3.amazonaws.com/architecture-org/files/modules/firstdeliverance-ericallixrogers-10.jpg
Fig. 3,4,7-9,11-19,23,24,27-32,34-40 - Taken by Kevin Gonzalez Lopez (me)

[1]  https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=70&v=N3ZjOVA4gXo
[2] https://www.cityofchicago.org/dam/city/depts/zlup/Historic_Preservation/Publications/Black_Metropolis_Bronzeville.PDF
[3] http://www.history.com/topics/black-history/great-migration
[4] http://interactive.wttw.com/a/dusable-to-obama-explore-early-chicago-black-press
[5] http://interactive.wttw.com/a/biking-the-boulevards-watch
[6] http://www.statuestorieschicago.com/statues/statue-dunbar/
[7] http://www.chicagonow.com/chicago-advocate/2015/03/in-chicagos-bronzeville-a-new-wave-of-resurgence-is-picking-up-steam/
[8] http://chicagopatterns.com/chicago-bee-cornerstone-of-the-black-metropolis/
[9] http://www.theforumbronzeville.com/
[10] https://preservationchicago.org/chicago07/unity-hall/
[11] http://chicagopatterns.com/pilgrim-baptist-church-and-kehilath-anshe-maariv-synagogue/
[12] https://chicagocrusader.com/plans-for-a-national-museum-of-gospel-music-in-chicago-to-be-unveiled-on-friday-at-a-press-conference-in-bronzeville-at-iit/
[13] https://chicagodefender.com/2016/10/03/a-look-inside-bronzevilles-redeveloped-rosenwald-complex/
[14] http://www.encyclopedia.chicagohistory.org/pages/171.html

The Culture of Chicago's Chinatown

Map 1 - Map Outline of Chicago's Chinatown

Map 2 - Map of Chinatown

Chicago is home to many cultures and even more neighborhoods. One neighborhood that is filled with culture is Chicago’s Chinatown. Chinatown is home to almost 50,000 residents ^[1] and more than 200 businesses ^[2]. While Chinatown is a thriving and growing neighborhood today, this was not the case in the late 19^th to 20^th century. In the 1860’s, Chinese immigrants were coming to America to work on the transcontinental railroad ^[3]. Upon its completion, the Chinese immigrants migrated to different parts of America to find work, some of which came to Chicago. The Chinese Exclusion Act of 1882 brought about violent racism and discrimination against the Chinese immigrants in America. It was because of the prejudice they faced that Chinese immigrants relied on urban clusters. The small clusters they formed developed over time to a small community. As their community developed, despite the ongoing discrimination, businesses began to flourish. And to aid with the growth of the community, family associations were established to aid incoming immigrants. The pride and dedication Chinese immigrants had in their culture was what allowed Chinatown to develop into the thriving neighborhood it is today. 

Fig. 1 - Plaque of Chinatown's
Nine Dragon Wall

Fig. 2 - Chinatown's Nine Dragon Wall

Today, I took in some of the culture Chinatown has to offer. The very first sight I saw coming out of the Chinatown Red Line stop was the Nine Dragon Wall. The way the ferocious looking dragons pop out and the beautiful tile material it’s made out of is what caught my attention. Upon reading the plaque of the wall, I learned that the number nine, in Chinese culture, is believed to be a prestigious number. The reason it's believed to be prestigious is because its pronunciation is similar to other words that have positive meanings.  I also learned that the dragon is an emblem of national spirit and power, which is why it’s also believed that many Chinese emperors were acclaimed reincarnations of dragons. While this piece of art is unique to Chinatown, it’s not the only one in existence; There are three more walls located in Datong, Shanxi Province, and Beijing. Lastly, Chinatown’s Nine Dragon Wall is a resemblance of the one located in Beihai Park in Beijing. 

Fig. 3 - Chinatown Gate (front)

Fig. 4 - Chinatown Gate (rear)

Fig. 5 - Plaque for the Chinatown Gate

Continuing my exploration of Chinatown, the next piece of art that caught my attention was the Chinatown Gate. The gate has four Chinese characters, Gung, Wei, Sha, and Tien that mean “The World is a commonwealth”. According to the plaque, Dr. Sun Yet-Sen, Founder of the Republic of China, hand-wrote the Chinese characters, which originate from an essay he wrote in the ‘‘BOOK OF RITES’’. In his essay, Dr. Sun Yet-Sen elaborates on the meaning of his characters by describing his idealistic views on harmony; he believes that everyone should be taken care of regardless of whether they share family ties. I believe his characters, and from what I observed exploring Chinatown, perfectly represent that community. Ironically, while the gate promotes unity, it really represents separation. While  I was first exploring Chinatown I didn’t realize it, by the time I finished, I had seen the difference between the Chinatown that lies entering the gate, or the “Old Chinatown”, and the Chinatown that lies in-front of the gate, or the “New Chinatown”. The Old Chinatown is filled with buildings whose architecture was inspired by the Chinese culture and is thriving with people. The New Chinatown, however, is filled with more modern-style buildings and did not have as many people as Old Chinatown did. While the contrast in the infrastructure does show separation, it also shows the continuing growth of Chinatown. And taking into consideration other Chinatown's around the U.S., like the ones in Manhattan or San Francisco, the continuing growth is what makes Chicago's Chinatown unique^[9][10].

Fig. 6 - Chinatown's Pui Tak Center

The first stop on my exploration of Chinatown was the Pui Tak Center. Unfortunately, when I tried to enter, I was told I could not, but was not given a reason why. The architecture of the building gives the impression that the building is come kind of Chinese castle. After reading up on the history of the Pui Tak Center, I discovered that not only is it a historical landmark, but it is the only one in Chinatown. The name, Pui Tak, means to build character or cultivate culture. The building was constructed in 1926-28 for the On Leong Merchants Association ^[4].  The association served the community by offering Chinese language school for children, helped incoming immigrants, organized activities and celebrations, and even acted as an informal judicial system that settled disputes between members. In 1993, the Chinese Christian Union Church (CCUC) purchased the building from the federal government ^[5]. The CCUC, which was found in 1915, also continued to help the development of the community; they provided English classes for adults, assisted children with tutoring and Chinese language classes, allowed residents to use their gym, opened a preschool in 1953, and hosted monthly volunteer medical clinics in the 60’s and 70’s. And to this day, the Pui Tak Center continues to serve its community by offering various educational services to children and adults, assisting immigrants with various workshops, and many more programs that are listed on their website ^[6].  

Fig. 7 - Chinatown's Chinese-American
Museum of Chicago

Fig. 8 - Guardian Lion Statue
outside of the Chinese-American Museum

Fig. 9 - Long Green Dress donated by Rita Moy

My second stop was the Chinese-American Museum. Outside of the museum, there are two lion statues. The “Guardian Lions” symbolize peace, prosperity, and good fortune. On the first floor, there is an exhibit of Chinese fashion heritage. A lot of the clothes I saw were made from silk and had elegant designs on them. For example, the long green dress in Fig. 9 is filled with Chinese scenery of Pagodas, men carrying carriages, and Chinese houses and wisteria. I was surprised when I found out that the dress was donated by Rita Moy, the daughter of Frank Moy, who was known as the unofficial mayor of Chinatown. 

One interesting fact that I learned was the significance behind children’s clothing; children were dressed in clothes and accessories that had auspicious patterns and symbolic designs that were believed to bring good health, good fortune, repeal evil spirits, and bring blessings and protection. The colors red and pink were considered good luck. My favorite article of clothing was an Imperial Manchu Dragon Robe, Fig. 11. The robe has a total of nine front facing dragons throughout the entire robe and has eight Buddhist symbol emblems: The conch shell, a lotus flower, the wheel of dharma, a parasol, an endless knot, the golden fish, a victory banner, and a treasure vase. The eight emblems symbolize thoughts of Buddha, purity and enlightenment, knowledge, crown and protection from elements, harmony, conjugal happiness and freedom, victorious battle, and treasure and wealth, respectively. The robes were worn only by five court officials and the color and design indicated the different degrees of formality. 

Fig. 10 - Display case of assorted children's clothing

Fig. 11 - Imperial Manchu Dragon Robe

Fig. 12 - Poster for My Chinatown: Stories
from Within Documentary

On the second floor, the museum offers an exhibit about some of the history of Chinatown and a 16-minute documentary called My Chinatown: Stories from within. The documentary showed various interviews of individuals living in Chinatown and they talked about their experience growing up in Chinatown. One interviewee talked about Dim sum, which also means touch the heart, and how it was always served in the morning and could even be bought from rolling carts throughout Chinatown. This stuck with me because of the connection it made to my culture, which is Hispanic; tamales are also always served in the morning and can also be bought from cart vendors throughout my neighborhood, Albany Park. She also mentioned the importance of food and how it was always shared and brought everyone together. One of the key highlights in the documentary was the importance of family. When Chinese immigrants were first coming to America during the Gold Rush, families weren’t allowed to travel, it was only the men. It was because of this that family associations, usually named after the last name of the family like Lees, were established to help immigrants by providing aid, protection, and a place to socialize with those who have the same surname, ancestors, or place of origin. Another highlight that stuck with me was the significance of herbs in Chinese culture. In their culture, herbs are used to cure all types of ailments as well as keeping the bodies Yin and Yang balanced. Some examples of medicinal herbs and their purpose are white flower oil, which cures cold symptoms and diarrhea and Ginseng, which is said to prevent diseases and preserve life. Herbal medicine is also popular in my culture; I have family members in Mexico that occasionally send my mother herbal medicine such as oils that help with hair strength or a special tea that helps with kidney stones. The exhibit also has a very cool looking dragon that is used during festivals, but unfortunately, that part of the museum does not allow pictures. 

Fig. 13 - Store Fronts along Wentworth Ave.

Fig. 14 - Entrance to Grace Grocery Store

Fig. 15 - Strawberry Flavored Ramune 

Exiting the museum, I headed towards Chinatown Square. Before that, given all the stores that were on my path there, I wanted to stop inside one. I chose to enter Grace Grocery Store, located at 2236 S Wentworth Avenue. The first thing I noticed immediately upon entering the store was who was behind the cash register; it was a family of three, the father, mother, and their young daughter. I thought it was cute that they were all taking care of their store and it reminds me of a lot of the “corner stores” here in Albany Park because they are also run by families. The store sold simple foods like milk or microwavable noodles, it wasn’t like a Tonys or an Aldi that has various food aisles, and they also sold miscellaneous items like hats or umbrellas, which also reminded of the corner stores around my neighborhood. I purchased a drink called “Ramune”. Ramune is a Japanese drink and has a really interesting bottling design; the glass bottle uses the pressure created by the carbonation of the drink to seal the top of the bottle with a marble. And as cool as the bottle design was, the drink was just as refreshing. 

Fig. 17 - Front of St. Therese Chinese
Catholic School

Fig. 16 - Guardian Lion Statue in front of
St. Therese Chinese Catholic Church 

Fig. 18 - Yuen's Family Association

Fig. 19 - Dragon Reliefs along sidewalks

Upon exiting the store, I made a quick detour to go see what building also had the two statues of the Guardian Lions. It was the St. Therese Chinese Catholic Church & Mission located on 218 W Alexander Street. Aside from the lion statues, the church did not have a lot of Chinese architectural features and nor was I able to enter it because the doors were locked. After looking into it, I discovered that St. Therese's Church was built for Italian immigrants in the late 19th to early 20th century and was named Santa Maria Incoronata^[11]. The demographics for the church began to change during World War II and finally pushed all Italians out of that area when the Dan Ryan Expressway began construction. While catechism was taught to the children of the incoming Chinese, it wasn't until 1940 when Reverend T.S. Mao appeared that the Chinese Catholic community would begin to grow. By October of 1947, St. Therese Chinese Mission was formally erected. What was interesting was that right across the street was St. Therese Chinese Catholic School, which did have Chinese architectural features. The school was originally founded as a mission school in 1941^[12]. It only had two classrooms and  during that time, it was the only Catholic school for Chinese children in the Midwest. And adjacent to the church was the Yuen’s Family Association, one of the many associations in Chinatown that assist residents or incoming immigrants of the community. One thing I noticed on my way to Chinatown Square were the sidewalks. Aside from them being well taken care of, there are reliefs of what I’m assuming is a dragon spread throughout the sidewalks of Chinatown.

Fig. 20 - Chinatown Square sign and plaques

Fig. 21 - Zodiac Statues at Chinatown Square 

Fig. 22 - Lamp Statue at Chinatown Square

Fig. 23 - 1 of 4 Chinatown Square Gates

Fig. 24 - Pagoda Style Structure at
Chinatown Square

Fig. 26 - Chinatown Square Store
Directory

Fig. 25 - Store Fronts of Chinatown
Square Outdoor Mall

The first thing I noticed arriving at Chinatown Square, were the silver plaques underneath the Chinatown Square sign. The plaque honors the officers, directors, and shareholders of the Chinese American Development Corporation for their commitment and support towards the development of Chinatown Square Mall. The entrance to the Square is one of the four gates that are at each of the entrance points to the square. Each gate has the four greatest inventions of China, which are gunpowder, the compass, papermaking, and printing. Continuing onto the Square, there are several stone statues of the Guardian Lions and lanterns, which symbolize a bright future. The Square is also home to 12 statues of the Chinese Zodiacs. I was a little confused by my zodiac statute because I know I am an Ox, but there was no Ox statue, instead there was a Bull statue. Unfortunately, only the statues of the Tiger, Dragon, Horse, Ram, and Monkey had plaques describing their attributes. The Square also has these tall Chinese Pagoda style structures, but they only take you up to the second floor of the outdoor mall. As seen from Fig. 28, the outdoor mall has various businesses from accountants and herbalists to bakeries and wedding services. A majority of the stores there do use English and Chinese lettering for their business names, but a lot of the advertisements they post on their windows are only in what I assume is Chinese. I also noticed that a lot of the restaurants located in the outdoor mall were very modern looking yet they didn't stray from using Chinese cultural symbols like dragons, pagodas, or lanterns. There was one restaurant that I wanted to try out, but looking through the window I saw that it was packed. And if I'm being honest, I did feel a little intimidated about going in because everyone there was Chinese American. I was worried that I wouldn't know what or how to order or if I wasn't using proper etiquette when I was eating.   

Fig. 27 - Chinese in America Mural Near Chinatown Square

While Chinatown Square has many works of art, none compare to the Chinese in America mural. The mural was designed by two Chinese artists, Zhaou Ping and Yan Dong, and uses approximately 100,000 mosaics tiles to tell the history of Chinese Americans in the United States. The left of mural contains images of Chinese immigrants coming to America to work on the railroads. The middle of the mural depicts unity in America through the multiracial characters all coming together with the Statue of Liberty behind them. The right of the mural continues with the message of unity and development by having a family standing next to the Chinatown gate and part of the Chicago skyline behind them.

Fig. 28 - Front of Chicago Public Library Chinatown Branch

Fig. 29 - First Floor inside the Chicago Public Library Chinatown Branch 

The next stop on my visit to Chinatown was the Chicago Public Library Chinatown branch. The library, which is 16000 sq. ft. and two stories, was opened on August 29, 2015 ^[7]. The library was designed by Skidmore, Owings, & Merrill (SOM), designers of the One World Trade Center in NY and the Centennial Tower in San Francisco, and incorporates Feng Shui principles. The library attracts around 1500 visitors a day and helps the community by providing English classes and many other events. Upon entering the library, I was breath taken by how modern and welcoming it is. I think its best feature is definitely the glass construction; it allows natural sunlight in and gives visitors a great view from inside. I have only been in one other library, the Independence branch, but that was when I was in middle school and it burned down later in 2015. I didn’t stay long, but during my time there I saw a big group of parents and their young children participating in some kind of class. I also saw a couple of senior citizens around the library reading but couldn’t see the cover of the books they were using. I think the library is a huge asset to the community and worth the $19.1 million it cost. 

Fig. 31 - Bust honoring Ping Tom

Fig. 30 - Two Stone Columns and Wooden
Pagoda-Style Pavilion in Ping Tom Park

Fig. 32 - Side of Ping Tom's Bust Describing
Who He Was

The last stop on my visit to Chinatown was Ping Tom Park. The first thing I saw upon entering the park was a pagoda-style pavilion. The park runs along the Chicago river and has plenty of green space and plenty of walking paths. Next to the pavilion, there is a bust honoring Ping Tom. Ping Tom was a very accomplished civic leader in Chinatown. He earned a degree in Economics and Law from Northwestern University and soon became the president of several businesses in the community. In 1984, Ping Tom and other business leaders formed the Chinese American Development Corporation. Together, they worked towards transforming a 32-acre rail yard into Chinatown Square. Ping Tom was also the founding president of the Chinatown Chamber of Commerce, former president and director of the Chinese American Civil Counsel, advisory board member of the Chinese American Service League, trustee for various civic and cultural institutes, and advisor to U.S. Senators, Illinois Governors, and Chicago Mayors. Ping Tom Park also has a field house that offers a gymnasium, an indoor pool, two meeting rooms, a fitness center, a patio on the second floor, a green rooftop, and a full-service kitchen ^[8]. Ping Tom Park also has a children’s playground, located near the pavilion. Ping Tom Park also offers various special events like Night Out in the Park or the Dragon Boat Race and offers spaces for rent. As I walked around the park, the one detail I noticed was the design for the park lights; they were in the shape of lanterns. I was going to try and visit the fieldhouse but didn’t know which direction to head in because my phone ran out of battery, so I couldn’t search it up and I also couldn't find a map of the park layout near me. On my way back to the red line, I noticed that all apartments around that area looked very modern and gave that area a kind of suburb feel to it. And despite all those apartments and cars parked on the street, there was not one person walking around on both my way to and from the park.

Overall, my visit to Chinatown was very informative and enjoyable. I think the experience could’ve been more enjoyable if the weather was warmer. I do look forward to visiting Chinatown in the summer, especially because I forgot to stop by this one gift shop in Old Chinatown with interesting looking statues. While Chinatown takes pride in its culture and traditions, it still has a very welcoming aurora to all those who visit.  

Sources:

Map 1: https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Chinatown_map.png

Map 2, Fig. 1 through 7, 9 through 13, 15 through 30, and 32 through 33: taken by Kevin Gonzalez Lopez

Fig. 6: https://www.puitak.org/about/building

Fig. 12: http://www.ccamuseum.org/index.php/en/current-exhibits

Fig. 29: http://aasarchitecture.com/2016/01/chicago-public-library-in-chinatown-branch-by-som.html/chicago-public-library-chinatown-branch-by-som-08

[1] https://www.point2homes.com/US/Neighborhood/IL/Chicago/Chinatown-Demographics.html

[2] https://data.cityofchicago.org/Community-Economic-Development/Chicago-Chinatown-Chamber-of-Commerce-New-Business/vufc-cd88/data

[3] http://chicago-chinatown.info/chinatown-history/

[4] https://www.puitak.org/about/building

[5] https://www.puitak.org/about/history

[6] https://www.puitak.org/programs

[7] https://www.chipublib.org/about-chinatown-branch/

[8] https://www.chicagoparkdistrict.com/parks-facilities/ping-tom-memorial-park

[9] http://www.chicagotribune.com/news/local/ct-chicago-chinatown-growth-met-20160513-story.html

[10] https://nextcity.org/features/view/chicago-chinatown-development-small-businesses

[11] http://www.sttheresechinatown.org/e/history/

[12] https://www.sttheresechicago.org/Page/607