Global Chicago 220: Bronzeville - The Black Metropolis

Fig. 1 - Map of Bronzeville

The neighborhood of Bronzeville is located just south of Chicago's downtown area. Its name was coined in the 1930's by James J. Gentry, a theater editor for Anthony Overton, to reflect the African heritage of the community^[14]. What makes Bronzeville unique is the richness of its history; from 1850 to 1870, the African-American population had increased from 320 to 3,700 in Chicago^[2]. Most of the population at the time was concentrated near the South Side. By 1900, the population near the South Side had grown to 30,000 and was being nicknamed "a city within a city"^[2]. The African-American population in Chicago continued to increase, which in 1910 to 1920 saw a 148% increase^[3]. The massive increase in population was due to the Great Migration. The restoration of white supremacy and Jim Crow Laws in the south were the reasons African-Americans wanted to escape to the north. And the reason why African-Americans were coming to Chicago was thanks to Robert S. Abbott. Abbott established the Chicago Defender newspaper in 1905^[4]. His newspaper influenced African-Americans to come to Chicago by printing stories about the injustice and poverty of the south and the social and financial opportunities of the north. But while African-Americans escaped the segregation of the south, they still faced it in the north. Bronzeville was born out of segregation towards African-Americans that kept them out of the loop. Despite the hardships they faced, Bronzeville continued to develop little by little. By 1998, the city of Chicago designated Bronzeville as the Black Metropolis-Bronzeville Historic District^[5].

Fig. 2 - The Great Migration Statue

My trip to Bronzeville was very educational. I learned to appreciate the rich history of Bronzeville through its iconic statues, buildings, and churches. The first stop on my list was the Great Migration Statue located on 26th Place and King Drive. The statue was created by Alison Saar in 1994 to commemorate the more than half a million African-Americans that came to Chicago in the 20th century^[5]. The bronze statue is carrying a suitcase and wearing a suit made out of worn shoe soles that symbolize the long difficult journey African-Americans had coming to Chicago.

Fig. 4 - Boulevard System of Bronzeville

Fig.3 - Bronze Bronzeville Street Map

Afterwards, I made my way down King Drive towards the Victory Monument located on 35th Street. Before viewing it, I noticed another attraction across the street from the monument. Unfortunately due to the snow, the big bronze map of Bronzeville was half way covered up by snow and what was visible was difficult to see due to the snow and salt. From what was visible, I can see that the map shows some of the geographical, cultural, and historical features of Bronzeville. In front of the bronze map was another map that contained information of the Boulevard System along with a list of several monuments in the area.

Fig. 5 - Drexel Fountain

One of the boulevards the map mentions is Drexel Boulevard; it was named after a Philadelphia banker who purchased 80 acres of real estate through a foreclosure in the 1840's^[5]. In that time, the area purchased was all prairie, but when the plans were proposed for the boulevard system by Chicago developer John S. Wright in 1849 (Fig. 4), wealthy Chicagoans flooded to the area. In his memory, Drexel's sons erected a fountain at the south end of the boulevard, which today it's the oldest public fountain in the city.

Another boulevard worth mentioning is the Michigan Boulevard. In 1929, Sears Roebuck's chairman Julius Rosenwald ordered the construction of the Michigan Boulevard Garden Apartments, better known as the Rosenwalds, which provided African-Americans with quality, affordable housing^[5].

Fig. 6 - The Rosenwald

The complex was designed by his nephew, architect Ernest Grunsfeld, who is known for his design of the Adler Planetarium. Unlike the other public housing developments that followed, the Rosenwald was known as a safe, attractive, and desirable place to raise a family. Some of its famous residents were Pulitzer prize winner Gwendolyn Brooks, famous jazz singer Nat King Cole, music legend Quincy Jones, and famous boxer Joe Louis. The Rosenwald has been vacant since 2000. Currently, the Rosenwald Court Developers LLC have reserved the apartments; 120 units will be for the Chicago Housing Authority seniors, 105 will be rented for discounted rates, 6 will be offered at market rates, and 8 will be reserved for on-site employees^[13].

Fig. 8 - Victory Monument
(Back)

Fig. 7 - Victory Monument
(Front)

Fig. 9 - Victory Monument
(Left)

Fig. 10 - Victory Monument
(Right)

Victory Monument was erected in 1927 to honor the more than 2000 men sent from the Eight Regiment to fight in France during WWI^[5]. The monument has a warrior-type statue in the front holding a shield in one hand and a sword in the other and an eagle stands in front of him. On the sides there are two draped female figures, one holds what looks like a branch and the other holds a tablet with names on it. On the back of the monument is a list of the men that died in France and is organized based on military rank. And on top of the monument is a statue of a soldier carrying a rifle.

Fig. 11 - Eight Regiment Armory (1915)

The Eight Regiment Armory was built on June 25, 1915 on 3353 S Giles. It was the first armory in the nation built to serve an African-American military regiment. What was unique about that regiment was that the officers also served as the rank and file. Today, the armory is the home of the military academy public high school.

Continuing on Martin Luther King Jr. Drive, I walked up and down to see as many of plaques on the Bronzeville Walk of Fame, which total at 91 plaques. Due to the snow and ice, I was unable to see all of them, but here are some of the ones I was able to see:

Fig. 13 - Claude Albert Barnett founded the Associated
Negro Press in 1919. Etta Moten Barnett, who is still
alive, is recognized as a singer, actress, and comedienne.

Fig. 12 - Bishop Louis Henry Ford was the fourth
leader of the Church of God in Christ and
the second Presiding Bishop of the church.

Fig . 14 - Langston Hughes is recognized for
his work as an author, poet, and playwright.

Fig. 15 - Vivian Harsh is recognized for being
the 1st black librarian for the Chicago Public
Library and as the founder of the
Special Negro Collection.
Richard Wright is recognized for his work
as an author.
Lorraine Hansberry is recognized for
her work as an author and playwright.
Lastly, Fannie Barrier Williams is recongized
for her work as a lecturer, journalist, editor, and
the 1st black member of the
Library Board of Chicago.

Fig. 16 - Dinah Washington "Queen of the Blues"
is recognized as a Jazz, Blues, and Gospel Singer

Fig. 17 - Jesse Binga is the founder of the
Binga State Bank in 1921.

Fig. 18 - Jon Jones is recognized for
being elected to the Cook County
Board of Commissioners in 1872.

Fig. 19 - McKinley Morganfield "Muddy Waters"
is recognized for his work as a Blues Musician.

Fig. 20 - Paul Laurence Dunbar Statue

Before moving on with my trip to Bronzeville, I feel I should mention two works of art I did not get to see. The first is the Paul Laurence Dunbar Statue located in Dunbar Park. Dunbar was the son of freed slaves, originally from Ohio, came to Chicago in search of work as a journalist. He was rejected due to racial discrimination and found work as an elevator operator. He soon published his first book of poems, Oak and Ivy, and became known as the 'elevator boy poet' because he regaled passengers with his poems. He talents were finally recognized and was invited to read his poetry at the 1893 World's Colombian Exposition. Before his death at the age of 33, he managed to get his poems published in major newspapers across America and published over a dozen books^[6].

Fig 21 - Bronzeville Green Line Mural

The second, which I've actually seen various times, but never up close, is the Bronzeville Green Line Station mural. It is located on the side of the entrance to the station. The mural is dedicated to famous African-Americans such as Chante Savage, Duke Ellington, Mahalia Jackson, Etta Moten Barnette, Nat King Cole, Dinah Washington, and R Kelly.

Fig. 22 - Stephen A. Douglass Tomb

My next stop on my trip to Bronzeville was the tomb of Stephen A. Douglass located at 636 E 35th Street. Douglass, better known for being Lincoln's debater, purchased 70 acres to build his estate in 1852^[5]. He decided to boost the value of his land by investing in the establishment of the University of Chicago. He also donated the land for the establishment of Camp Douglass to the Union Army in 1862. Camp Douglass was used to imprison 26,000 confederate soldiers, which 1 in every 7 died due to the living condition. And due to the camp, which was across the street, enrollment at the University of Chicago declined during the years it remained active.

Fig. 23 - Supreme Life Building Plaque

The first building I visited in Bronzeville was the Supreme Life Building located at 3501 S King Drive. The building was built in 1921 and was used as the headquarters for the Supreme Life Insurance Company, the first black owned and operated insurance company in the northern United States. Frank L. Gillespie founded the firm in 1919 and moved it into the building in 1921. Due the company's success, the building was remodeled in 1950 by covering its classical-style facade with porcelain-metal panels. It is recognized as one of the nine structures in the Black Metropolis-Bronzeville Historic District.

Fig. 24 - The Chicago Defender Building

The next iconic building I visited in Bronzeville was the Chicago Defender Building located at 4445 S King Drive. In 1905, Robert S. Abbott founded and published the Chicago Defender newspaper^[4]. The newspaper became the most influential black newspaper because it not only reported news, but protested inequality, promoted political and personal action, and reflected the values and ambitions of African-Americans. The Chicago Defender played an important role during the Great Migration; Abbott influenced African-Americans in the south to come to the north by printing stories about about the injustice and poverty of the south and the social and financial opportunities of the north. The newspaper set the standard for the black press by documenting pervasive race problems in the U.S. like Chicago's Race Riots of 1919 and included writing from well-known African-American writers like Pulitzer prize winner Gwendolyn Brooks or columns by Langston Hughes. Abbott also started the Bud Billiken Parade, which is the oldest and largest running African-American parade in the U.S. The parade is for the betterment of Chicago's youth, education, and as a reminder that school is abut to start. By the late 1930's Abbott was forced to turn the newspaper over to his nephew John H. Sengstacke due to failing health. Under Stengstacke, the newspaper soon became a daily paper. And due to the increase in the black population, the black press not only covered political and religious news, but began to cover social scenes, scandals, murders, trials, and local and national events.

Fig. 25 - Overton Hygienic Building

The Overton Hygienic Building is the next iconic building I visited in Bronzeville. The building is located on 3619-27 S. State Street and is named after Anthony Overton. Overton was a former slave who soon became the owner of one of the largest cosmetic firms serving African-Americans. Overton also owned a bank, an insurance agency, and a publishing company, the Chicago Bee^[5]. Currently it is the home of the Black Metropolis Convention & Tourism Council's Bronzeville Visitor Information Center^[7].

Fig. 26 - The Chicago Bee Building (1896)

Like mentioned previously, Anthony Overton also owned the Chicago Bee Building located on 3647-55 S. State Street. The building was constructed in 1929 for $200,000 to house his newspaper the Chicago Bee, which was a competing newspaper with the Chicago Defender^[8]. Due to the Great Depression, his businesses took a big hit and was forced to sell the Overton Hygienic Building and move his cosmetic business into the Chicago Bee. Overton's company stayed in business until the early 80's and the Bee building remained vacant until 1996^[8]. The building underwent extensive renovation so that it can become the Chicago Bee Branch of the Chicago Public Library.

Fig. 27 - Forum Historic Timeline (1890)

Fig. 28 - Forum Historic Timeline (1920)

Fig. 29 - Forum Historic Timeline (1950)

Fig. 30 - Forum Historic Timeline (1970)

Fig. 31 - Forum Historic Timeline (2015)

Fig. 32 - The Forum Building

One building that caught my eye was the Forum building located at 318-328 E. 43rd Street. The Forum was built in 1897 and played a significant role in the community by hosting performances of musicians like Nat King Cole and provided a meeting place for civic groups^[9]. The building contains an assembly/performance hall and possibly the oldest hardwood ballroom dance floor in Chicago. The building's Forum Hall, which is used for performances, was closed in the 1970's and led to neglect of the buildings condition. The city wanted to demolition the building, but in 2011 the Urban Junction Inc. stepped in and made important structural repairs. Currently, the Urban Juncture Inc. had begun the revitalization of the building and will start with the first floor to be used for hospitality and performance/gallery venues.

Fig. 33 - Unity Hall

Another iconic building in Bronzeville's history that was a victim of neglect is Unity Hall located at 3140 S. Indiana Avenue. The building was originally constructed as the Lakeside Club, a Jewish social club, but as the areas demographic changed from Jewish to African-American, the building became Unity Hall; it played a major role in African-American politics and social history^[10]. In 1917, Oscar DePriest, Chicago's first African-American alderman, established the Peoples Movement Club and moved it into that building. The building also served as the headquarters for the Democratic leader William Dawson and as a church after WWII. In 1998, the city of Chicago designated the building as a Chicago Landmark. Currently, the building faces demolition, but as a landmark it can't be demolished.

Fig. 34 - Chicago's Home of Chicken and Waffles:
Monique's Love

After visiting a few of Bronzeville's iconic buildings, I stopped to grab a bite to eat at Chicago's Home of Chicken and Waffles located at 3947 S. King Drive. The restaurant's interior decor is very nicely done and there are various African-style paintings throughout the restaurant. The restaurant was packed when I got there and there was a line for customers waiting to be seated. The customer service was very nice. Due to the long line and the fact that the restaurant only has booths and tables that seat four and more, I decided to get an order of Monique's Love to go. While the size of the waffle was pretty big, for $12 I think they should at least offer two waffles. The food was good and I really liked that the waffles have a hint of cinnamon.

Fig. 35 - Information on Ida B. Wells-Barnette
In Front of Her House.

After recieving my order, I visited one of the many famous homes in Bronzeville, the home of Ida B. Wells-Barnett located at 3624 S. King Drive. Ida B. Wells-Barnett was born a slave in Mississippi and at the age of 14, she became a teacher. She was dismissed in 1891 for protesting segregation. In her 20's, she wrote columns that focused on social issues for the Memphis Free Speech. In 1893 she came to Chicago to speak at the World's Colombian Exposition on the lack of representation for African-Americans. Two years later she moved to Chicago and married Ferdinand Lee Barnett, the founder of Chicago's first black newspaper, the Conservator. That year she also published the first statistical report on lynching, A Red Record. Wells went on to become the founder of the National Association for the Advancement of Colored People, the Negro Fellowship League, the nation's first black women's suffrage organization, and even helped open the first kindergarten in Chicago's black community.

Fig. 36 - Mariano's Grocery Store

Fig. 37 - Paul G. Stewart
Apartments

On my way to see more sights, I came upon the newest addition to Bronzeville, Mariano's grocery store on S. King Drive and 39th Street. Along the fence for Mariano's are pictures of famous African-Americans from Bronzeville. But not everyone in the community feels happy with its construction because it's a clear sign of gentrification. The store has taken 7 out of the 55 acres of the former site of the Ida B. Wells Homes. Looking around the area, the store clearly contrasts the entire area; there are two empty lots across the street from it and behind the store is a closed down Atlanta Food and Liquors and Quick Bite Chicken and Fish. While Bronzeville is undergoing a lot of revitalization projects (Fig .37), I think Mariano's will pose a tough competitor for small businesses. It should also be noted that the housing advocates are demanding that the Chicago Housing Authority to keep their commitment of replacing affordable and low-income units on the grounds of the Wells Homes^[7].

Fig. 38 - Pilgrim Baptist Church

Fig. 39 - Pilgrim Baptist Church

The next stop on my trip to Bronzeville was the famous Pilgrim Baptist Church located at 3301 S. Indiana Avenue. The church was constructed by Adler & Sullivan, a world renown architectural firm and designed by Frank Lloyd Wright in 1890^[11]. As it was first known, the K.A.M Isaiah Temple was used as a synagogue until 1922 when the K.A.M moved to Kenwood and the Pilgrim Baptist Church moved in. The church is recognized as the birth place of Gospel music. Thomas A. Dorsey was the blues musician who created Gospel music at the church. After the death of his wife and child, Dorsey combined sacred text with secular blues elements to create Gospel music. From 1932 to the late 1970's, Dorsey served as the music director at the church and found the National Convention of Gospel Choirs and Choruses^[12]. In 2006 the church was demolished due to a fire. Don Jackson, CEO of Central City Productions and founder of the Stellar Gospel Music Awards, plans to build the National Museum of Gospel Music on the grounds of the Pilgrim Baptist Church by 2020. I think the museum will be a great asset to the museum because not only will it be a big attraction, but it will reestablish it as the birthplace of gospel music.